There are some real oddities at Doot Doot Doot. For one thing, the name. Official explanation: a doot doot doot is the leader of a group of jackalopes, the giant horned jackrabbit of storybook myth.

Now presiding over the lavish Mornington Peninsula hotel’s fine diner is an Aussie chef known as much for fine-dining finesse as for fried chicken. It’s out with the set menu and in with a theatrical ...