Robert Sietsema is the former Eater NY senior critic with more than 35 years of experience covering dining in New York City. Sanuki Udon looks like a franchise operation, but it’s the first of its ...

Udon noodles are my go-to for busy weeknights, because they cook in just four minutes, giving me just enough time to throw together a quick broth and interesting topping using whatever I have on hand.

Udon rarely gets a blip in conversations about good noodle soups. It doesn’t stand a chance in a popularity showdown with ramen or pho. And compared to its sibling, the soba buckwheat noodle, the udon ...